Part One: Jejudo: Hawaii in Korea

Tropical paradise! This is what I thought when I got my first real look at Jejudo, a small island south of Korea, and I was not disappointed. Walking out of the airport, you can immediately tell this place is different. It is a volcanic island and one look at the ground proves this. The black soil and rocks are striking against the emerald green foliage.

With my checklist at the ready and trusty guidebook in hand, we set off in our rental car to explore. First stop, Gimnyeong beach. It was a small beach, but fantastic. The black lava rocks jut out into the clear blue water, and there was a small sheltered inlet that was great for the girls to play in. It's the most beautiful beach I've seen and I could have stayed all day! We had a great time here.



After we took a pay for use, ice cold shower, and dressed, we drove on to Manjanggul, which is supposed to be the world's longest system of lava tube caves. Matt really enjoyed it but after about 500 meters I got tired of sloshing through cold water and dripping cave roofs. Knowing that the way in was also the way out, I had little desire to continue this slog for another 1.5 kilometers, so my oldest and I turned around and went out. Matt completed the 1 kilometer trek to the end (then back) with the youngest on his back in her carriage seat, and brought back some pictures to share.

very cold water on this floor!

walls with lava flow lines

example of a 'lava raft'; named turtle rock

The lava column at the end of the tube. It's much taller than the picture makes it look. This feature is actually the divider between this (Manjang) tube and the lava tube behind it. The next tube is too narrow for people to walk through.

After our brief spelunking adventure, we drove on to Seongsan-ri, almost an island itself, connected to Jejudo by a narrow isthmus. The attraction here, besides the completely untouristy atomosphere, is Ilchulbong. Ilchulbong is an extinct volcano jutting out into the ocean. When we arrived here it was evening, so we decided to walk up to the top the next morning. We had dinner which consisted of the local specialty: jeonbok-juk, which is rice porridge with abalone. Matt just had roasted abalone with all the Korean traditional side dishes. We stayed at a minbak from my guidebook (thank you Lonely Planet) and it was great. We had two double beds, kitchenette, in-room computer with net access and this view of Ilchulbong for about 45 USD: It was foggy that evening, as you can see. It thickened overnight. The next morning I went out, and couldn't see Ilchulbong at all. You can see how thick the fog was coming in from the ocean.
So our plans for hiking up were discarded. Prior to that however, my youngest daughter and I were the only ones awake, so we went for a walk along the boardwalk. We came upon one of the things Jejudo is famous for: haenyeo. These are older women whose life work is diving for edibles from the sea. They use no special equipment: wetsuits, flippers, nets, and knives is all. This is the last generation as their daughters have chosen easier work elsewhere. (Or so says the book.) It's considered rude to take their picture so I didn't. There are many statues and a couple of museums around the island dedicated to these women. Here's an example.

We left our minbak and relaxed atmosphere behind and drove towards Jungmun, the resort/tourist area of Jejudo. Of course I had some stops on the list before arriving. The first was Jeongbang Pokpo, a 23 meters high waterfall that is supposed to be the only fall in Asia falling directly into the sea.

still a bit foggy

 The walk to the falls was like being in a jungle (with a convenient foot path), and in fact all the paths we went on during our trip were like this. These shady, cool, forested trails open to a beautiful sight every time. See:

We walked down to the base of the falls and played in the water and marveled at its beauty for a while. After the hot, humid walk down the cold water is wonderful to be in!

clear, very blue water

Our next stop was also a waterfall, actually a series of waterfalls called Cheonjeyeon Pokpo. Legend says the seven nymphs who served the emperor of heaven would come here at night to bathe. It was so spectacular that I can see how people would associate heavenly beings with this place!

the second waterfall

beautifully clear water!

I couldn't tell how long of a walk the third waterfall was, and Matt was sitting in the car with the sleeping baby, so I had to get back. I learned later that the last waterfall was right beneath this bridge that I had walked over!
This is a bridge with images of the aforementioned nymphs. You can kind of see the first and second falls from here. The foliage is thick and plentiful which obscures the view.