Monday, March 7, 2011

Island Life: Penang




Penang, an island vacation with a bit of history thrown in. The beaches here aren't the best that Malaysia has to offer, and since we found out first-hand that the waters are also infested with jellyfish, that part was a bit disappointing. However, there is a good bit of sight-seeing to be done in the island's largest town, George Town. According to Wikipedia, "It is officially recognized as having a unique architectural and cultural townscape without parallel anywhere in East and Southeast Asia." It's hard to describe the feeling of a town, but this place is different. It was founded by the East India Trading Company, so there was a lot of Western influence here, but being a trading hub brings many global influences, even way back then. It's not Asian, it's not Arabic, it's not Western, but it is some of all of the above.

As you can guess, the multi-cultural diversity seen in Kuala Lumpur continues in George Town. (For example, our taxi driver had an Irish mother, Afghan father, born in London, and lived in Malaysia.) This makes for a large variety of restaurants (and they were all delicious!). A note about the restaurants: every one we ate at was open air, more like a pavilion really. They are all close to the beach so you get a good breeze blowing through at all times. I really enjoyed that part, but, because of the openness, I also saw more than one rat. That did take a bit of my appetite. I had to block that part out.
Back to diversity. There is a large population of Chinese living here; how many are immigrants and how many are "unmixed" descendants I can't say. Within short walking distance of each other there is a mosque, Hindu temple, and Chinese shrines. (There are also Christian churches as well, but these aren't tourist spots.) Our hotel was close by a mosque (not the one pictured), and that evening they broadcasted their evening prayers, as mosques do. This was quaint and an object of interest, as I've never experienced this before. However, the next morning at sunrise, not so interesting. So, unless you are a devout Muslim or a really early riser, do not book a hotel near a mosque.

Kapitan Keling mosque circa 1800
Sri Mariamman circa 1883

Yp Kongsi circa 1924
All attractive buildings, not much to write about. We also visited a large Chinese clan house, Khoo Khongsi, which is the most elaborate and intricately decorated place I've ever seen. Almost every inch of the outside, the walls, pillars, eaves, everything, is carved in some way. The roof ornaments on top are also elaborately adorned as well. I believe the family descendants still live in the surrounding houses.

rebuilt 1906
It may look like bare space, bu no - the carvings just aren't as prominent.
drive-by shot of Fort Cornwallis
After a full day of sight-seeing in George Town, it was time for some beach fun. Unfortunately, we were driven out of the water by jellyfish, so only sand fun could be had. The hotel had a kiddie pool that the girls were able to fully enjoy!



Our second day on Penang, we drove our rental car out to the Butterfly Farm. (For us Americans, they drive on the wrong side! This required some concentration when turning or pulling onto the road.) This was my first time at a butterfly farm and it was fabulous! They are fluttering everywhere, brushing by your cheek and making the greenhouse ceiling appear to have moving clouds.

my favorite one

After this, we took a looong drive around the island on the curvy, twisty road. (Imagine lots of letters 'S' and 'N' smushed together.) It was really quite beautiful (for about 20 minutes, then I just wanted to get out), and confirmed the fact that Penang is indeed a tropical island. We stopped several times to take pictures, and you can hear the sounds of the jungle all around you, as that part of the road was not highly travelled on. To be honest, it was kind of intimidating. I kept expecting a snake to come slithering up or a monkey to jump out at me!

More pool time and umbrella drinks and our time in Penang was over. Next stop, Langkawi!

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